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Quarax's Real Parts Aliens M314 Motion Tracker Assembly Guide

Note: this is a big work in progress.

Quarax's Real Parts Aliens M314 Motion Tracker Assembly Guide is an X-part guide on building a replica of the M314 Motion Tracker seen in Aliens out of all the same parts that were used to make the props for film, or the most accurate alternatives.

Part 1: Parts

Part 1.1: Casio SL-85

The keypad on the right side of the Motion Tracker is made from a part of the keypad of a Casio SL-85. It is not the similar Casio SL-80, as the SL-80 is too large. As one has never been examined in detail, it is also possible the keypad was made from a Casio SL-8.

Part 1.2: Grill

The grill appears to be from a Superswitch Intruder Alarm Catalogue Number 6000, which is better known as the base for the TNR lamp props. This would make sense, as the part with the grill was removed to make the lamp props. The variant used would be the one with the smaller "grill hole", as that was the variant used to make the door switches in the Hadley's Hope set.

Part 1.3: Hama Remote Release

The device with the 2 buttons above the screen on the right side of the Motion Tracker and the cord that attaches from the body to the "pump widget" are made from a Hama Remote Release.

Part 1.4: Hama Self-Timer

Part 1.5: Hama Slide Viewer

The Motion Tracker's screen is made from a Hama slide viewer. There are 2 known variants of the slide viewer — one with a thicker "ring" around the screen (the far rarer variant), and one with a thinner "ring". The variant with thinner "ring" is clearly what was used.

Part 1.6: Jobo Minilux

Part 1.7: Kango 426

The body of the Motion Tracker is made from a Kango 426. It is not the similar (but far harder to find) Kango 327 or Kango 422, as the 327 features a more rounded selector switch than what the prop has and the 422's casing is a darker color than the prop's.

There are two known variants of the Kango 426 (not counting variants with different stickers and boxes) — one with a larger trigger and one with a smaller trigger; the larger trigger variant is clearly what was used for to make the props. Additionally, the Kango 426 used to make the props came in a black case, as the same case can be seen being used as set dressing in the Hadley's Hope set.

Part 1.8: Matchbox Power Unit

The box the keypad is on is made from a Matchbox Power Unit. There are several known variants of the Matchbox Power Unit, including

Part 1.9: Olympus T28 Calculation Panel

The panel on top of the Motion Tracker's grip is an Olympus T28 Calculation Panel.

Part 1.10: "Pump Widget"

The "Pump Widget" on the front of the Motion Tracker is likely from a sphygmomanometer, as nearly identical Pump Widgets have been found in sphygmomanometers. In 2014, Matt Noble sold a limited amount of Pump Widgets from sphygmomanometers that were almost exactly the same as the ones used on the props. However, the sphygmomanometers one hole on his Pump Widget had to be filled in and another had to be created to match the layout of the holes on the ones used on the props. Additionally, the "nipple" was replaced with a more accurate one.

Part 1.11: "Rotary Switch"

The "rotary switch" on the bottom of the Motion Tracker is currently unidentified.

Part 1.12: Sling

The sling used on the Motion Tracker appears to be the same as the ones used on the M41A Pulse Rifles and M240 Incinerator Units. It is made from 8-bar nylon webbing with 2 black metal buckles to allow the sling to be adjusted and 2 black metal "dog hooks" on both ends; nearly identical dog hooks are manufactured by HH Industries, however, according to to their website, they have "an experience from 2002", likely meaning they did not manufacture the ones used for the film props and their hooks are inaccurate is some way. Matt Noble (known as "Noble" on The Aliens Legacy and the RPF) makes near exact replicas of the sling, however the buckles used on his slings feature more rounded corners than those used on the props and the hooks appear to be made by HH Industries. The Aliens Legacy user "Chef" also sells replica slings, although his slings also appear to use more rounded buckles.

Part 1.13: Vivitar 2500 Zoom Thyristor Electronic Flash

The "meter" and panel on the top and bottom of the screen, respectively, are made from parts of a Vivitar 2500 Zoom Thyristor Electronic Flash. There are two known variants of the Vivitar 2500

Part 1.14: Webley & Scott Sling Swivels

According to Hyperdyne Labs' Motion Tracker Assembly Guide, the sling swivels on the handle of the Motion Tracker are Webley & Scott Sling Swivels. Nearly identical sling swivels are made by Bisley.

Part 2: Kango 426 Disassembly, Cleaning, Modding, and Repairing

Part 2.1: Disassembly

Part 2.1.1: Handle

Remove the depth gauge (Figure 2.1.1) by holding down the adjustment button (Figure 2.1.2) and sliding the gauge out.

Unscrew the four screws on the left side of the handle (Figure 2.1.3).

Remove the left side of the handle (Figure 2.1.4).

Unscrew the two screws that attach the bottom of the right side of the handle to the body (Figure 2.1.5).

Unscrew the two screws that attach the top of the right side of the handle to the body (Figure 2.1.6).

Cut the two light blue wires that lead from the trigger into the body (Figure 2.1.7).

Remove the right side of the handle from the body (Figure 2.1.8).

Remove the data plate by sliding it out (Figure 2.1.10).

Unscrew the two screws that attach the AC power cord holder to the right side of the handle (Figure 2.1.11).

Remove the holder, AC power cord and trigger (Figure 2.1.12; they power cord and trigger come out together).

Remove the trigger cover (Figure 2.1.13) from the trigger.

Part 2.1.2: Lower Body

Unscrew the two screws holding the back of lower body to the upper body.

Unscrew the two screws holding the front of the lower body to the upper body.

Remove the lower body from the upper body.

Remove the rubber grommet from the body.

Unscrew the four screws attaching the bottom to the body.

Remove the bottom.

Unscrew the screws attaching the black panels to the body on both sides.

Remove the both panels.

Remove the armature/carbon brushes assembly.

Remove the armature.

Unscrew the screws attaching the carbon brushes and carbon brush holders to the black part on both sides.

Remove both carbon brushes and both carbon brush holders from the black part.

Unscrew the screw attaching the field assembly to the body.

Remove the field assembly.

Part 2.1.3: Upper Body

For this section, the Kango 426 diagram (Figure will be used for part numbers.

Unscrew the screw (part 65) holding the selector switch (part 64) in place (Figure 2.3.2).

Remove the switch (Figure 2.3.3).

Remove part 60 (Figure 2.3.4).

The pin (part 63) holding parts 62 and 61 in place (Figure 2.3.5) will require something small enough to fit in the shaft it's stuck in, such as an allen wrench. With the tool, push the pin out (Figure 2.3.6). Once it's pushed out far enough, pliers can be used to pull it out (Figure ).

Remove parts 62 and 61 (Figure 2.3.7) by wiggling them out (parts 62 and 61 come out together).

Use pliers to remove part 1 (Figure 2.3.8) while pushing down on part 2 (Figure 2.3.9; this will require a lot of force).

Once part 1 is removed, part 2 (Figure 2.3.10) and the spring (part 3; Figure 2.3.11) should also be able to easily be removed.

The two balls (part 4; Figure 2.3.12) should just fall out of part 5.

Remove the grip (parts 22-24; Figure 2.3.13) by pulling on the left side (when the grip is rotated downwards) of part 24 (Figure 2.3.14).

Remove part 9 (Figure 2.3.15) by spinning it counterclockwise (when the front of the drill is facing you) until it stops moving, then push down on it and spin it counterclockwise again (while still pushing down on it).

Remove part 10 (Figure 2.3.16).

Use circlip pliers to remove the circlip (part 11; Figure 2.3.17).

Use pliers to pull out parts 13 and 14 (this will require some force, but not as much as removing part 1; parts 13 and 14 come out together).

Use circlip pliers to get one end of the circlip (part 15) free (Figure ).

Grab the free end with pliers, and pull out the rest of the circlip.

Part 2.2: Cleaning

Before cleaning in water, remove any stickers or labels from the drill. Use an adhesive remover to remove any residue left by the labels.

Clean the drill with hot water, dishwashing liquid (also known as dishwashing soap), and a sponge. Running it through a dishwasher may also help.

Part 2.3: Modding

Part 2.3.1: Cutting down the Extension

Cut the cylindrical extension on the front of the Kango with a hacksaw, leaving a small amount of the extension behind.

Sand and file the rest of the extension until it's flush with rest of the front.

Part 2.3.2: Cutting out the Grill Area

Part 3: Vivitar 2500, Disassembly, and Modding

Part 3.1: Disassembly

Using something sharp, such as a screwdriver, scratch off a small amount of the edge of the black hinge covers on both sides. Try not to damage the blue hinge underneath, as these parts were used to make the Smart Gun headsets used in the film.

Once enough of the edge is scratched off, stick the tool under the black cover and pop off the cover.

Unscrew the two screws attaching the blue hinges to the body.

Remove the blue hinges.

Pull apart the two main sections of the Vivitar.

On the lower section, unscrew the two screws attaching the piece with "LOCK" on it to the body.

Unscrew the screw next to the hinge on both sides.

Pull apart to the top and bottom shells.

Remove the sensor attached to the top shell.

Unscrew the screw attaching the circuit board to the bottom shell.

Remove the board.

On the first circuit board, dremel away the board around the 2 switches we want.

Cut the board down.

File the back of the board down flush.

Take the other half of the flash unit and remove the screws holding it together.

Grab both sides, push in and pull the pieces apart.

Remove the guts from the 2 pieces.

Take the piece with the meter on it and dremel the lower side to remove the meter.

File it down flush.

Now take the other piece and remove the sticker with the meter markings. Keep this sticker.

Now take the plastic cover with the LED and switch holes. Insert the loose battery cover into its slots.

Glue this plastic piece into place.

Once it is dry, cut the overlapping plastic from the battery cover. Also cut off the hinge rings with a dremel.

Cut the top portion using a hacksaw or dremel.

File down the top piece so it there is little curve left.

Special Thanks

  • S. Dörger and J. Shima for their helpful Motion Tracker Assembly Guide (hosted by Hyperdyne Labs).
  • The Aliens Legacy users "Trigger happy" and "punkmarine" for help with disassembling my Kango.
  • William Goldman for pictures.
  • The RPF user "Jonesythecat" and The Aliens Legacy user "ObiHahn" for cleaning advice.
  • The Aliens Legacy users "bigbisont" and "Noble" for terminology help.

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